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TRIP UPDATE - 4 (December 22-25)
Vadodara, Champaner-Pavagadh and Ahmedabad
December 22, 2006, Exploring the sights and sounds of Vadodara
We wanted to take in the historic city of Vadodara and who better than Ashok Kharkhanis to guide us through the city. Our courteous host took us around the city, he showed us everything of interest and historical value that one could see. Our first stop was the Maharaja Fatehsingh Museum, located contiguous to the Vadodara Cricket Club in the palace compound. The main attraction of the museum is a vast collection of paintings by the master artist Raja Ravi Varma who was a close confidante of Maharaja Sayyaji Rao III. Apart from paintings the museum displays an array of crystal and ivory furniture, porcelain, brass and wood sculptures, bone artefacts and medieval costumes. Entrnace fee to the museum is a modest Rs.10 and open time is between 10.00 am and 4.30pm. We decided against visiting the larger museum in the main palace due to paucity of time.
 
Vadodara city sights
Our next stop was to roam around the city and see all the four gates of the old walled city. The walls have collapsed long back but the four main gates remain. We had already seen the Ghandy and Champaner gates so we went through the Lehripura gate and through Mandvi and came out through the Pani Gate. Interesting experiences of passing through busy traffic and suddenly coming face to face with the 300 year old gates of the city. We visited the Khanderao market, a building which looks more like a large temple with four tall towers, and a grandiose entrance than a market. Built by Maharaja Khanderao in late 18th century the stately building hosts the city's main wholesale market. "One of the few kings who used people's money for the right causes," observed Kharkhanis. How true, today our rulers seem bent upon building their own castles rather than building infrastructure for the benefit of the masses, a classic example is the state of the country's government schools, many of which continue to function in one-room ramshackle buildings.
  
Vadodara city sights
In Vadodara something that is commonly seen is the abject poverty in some pockets of the city, mostly the muslim dominated areas in the old city characterised by crumbling buildings, filthy potholed streets, children in rags begging. One thing I don't understand is that Gujarat's roads infrastructure is the best in the country while the people continue to suffer. Has the establishment purposely decided to ignore the teeming masses???
Further we went to another major landmark of the city, the Sursagar lake and the Nyay Mandir (court complex) sited adjacent. Sursagar lake was built by Sayyaji Rao III to meet the drinking water needs of the city but today it contains nothing but the city's untreated sewage and waste water. A tall cement sculpture of Lord Shiva in a standing posture has been installed in the centre of the lake recently (about 5-6 yrs ago). We also visited the campus of MS University which is a elegant heritage monument. Students are lucky to experience the ambiance of this sprawling campus.
 
Vadodara - city of contrasts
The Vadodara City Museum housed in a stately colonial building inside the Syyaji Rao Park, a large green space was the most interesting visit of the day. Neatly organised into several thematic galleries, the museum sprawls over 30,000 sq. ft over three stories. Particularly interesting for me were the Antiques and the Paleolithic Galleries which display an array of objects d' art, weaponry, tools and implements, costumes, figurines and coins used eons ago. We spent nearly half a day going through the galleries in the museum and finally feeling tired and feet aching I decided to go out of the museum. Meanwhile Kishore and Kharkhanis were sitting in the lobby looking tired and waiting for me.
One good directive of the Gujarat state government is that it is mandatory that all school children depending on the class they are reading in must visit a museum, science center, planetarium and a zoo every academic year. In my opinion this is a very good move, I am sure children will find it interesting to see all the exhibits in the museumand learn something out of the visits.
Tired and hungry we headed out towards the city for a simple meal of chapati and rice. After the meal we decided to call it a day exploring the city and head home and take rest. Meanwhile Salil, Kharkhanis' London-based son arrived from Ahmedabad to spend sometime with his dad. We left them together at home and went to a cyber cafe to check our mail. Suddenly Kishore got a call from  Yogesh Patel the director of Central TVS, the city's main dealer of TVS Bikes. He had been informed by Aravind Padgaonkar, General Manager, Technical (TVS) to check our bikes and service them. He asked us where we were and immediately drove up with two of his mechanics to take our bikes for service. We went with him to the showrom and were impressed with the way business was being conducted. The counrtesy and warmth extended to us by Mr. Patel was really memorable and within the next two hours our bikes were washed and serviced and appeared gleaming. We tested the bikes and were happy to note that the body noise which had started during our bumpy ride across MP had gone, the bikes felt much better to ride and started easily. During the course of our conversation Yogesh Patel came to know that TVS Motor Company was our bike and service sponsor and that we were running a tight budget to fund our trip. "You guys are financing the tour out of your own savings? I will sponsor you two full tanks of petrol," said Yogesh Patel. We accepted the offer gratefully and said "I hope all dealers will help out like you," we chorused. Ashok and Salil came to the service station and since we were not too hungry we settled for a light Chinese meal and then settled for the night.
December 23, 2006, Awe inspiring Champaner-Pavagadh
The plan was to visit world heritage site, Champaner and Pavagadh hill fort which is crowned by an antiquated Durga Mata temple and return back to the city by evening to prepare for the next day's departure to Ahmedabad. Hence we started off easily from home and headed towards the city where we had breakfast of Dosa and Sambar at Madras Cafe. After breakfast Salil departed to Ahmedabad and we started off towards Champaner (50 km) on the same road we had ridden into Vadodara. We were two up on my bike while Kishore rode solo and reached Champaner by about 11 am.
The entire area of Champaner-Pavagadh is very well maintained with neat signboards, explanatory signages, Archaeological Survey of India kiosks giving information about the ruins, selling literature etc. For the first time I noticed how proper governmental attention could transform a monument into a tourist attraction. We have Hampi in Karnataka which is of equal or perhaps better artistry and importance but it is in such neglected state and only when UNESCO makes noise the state takes interest in the locale. But here the state government aggressively identifies, preserves and restores monuments and then once they conform to the UNESCO heritage site standards they inform them and get the World Heritage tag, indeed meticulous and well intentioned and displays a great love and regard for their heritage.
As we drove into Champaner the first thing I noticed was the massive fort wall built of red sandstone. Though some portions of it are damaged the entrance ways are pretty well maintained and the walled city is still pretty intact. Our was first stop was at the Saher Ki Masjid, a sprawling mosque which displays excellent and refined stone artworks both on the interior and the exterior. Built during the later half of the 15th century, the mosque's characteristic feature is its two tall minarets and five circular domes each infront of a Mehrab or a prayer niche. Built in such a way as to make most use of natural sunlight and ventilation the structure has windows on all sides. Each window is a work of intricate tracery art. There is a small ablution tank inside the masjid for muzzeins to wash up before and after prayers. The vast prayer hall is supported by several squarish pillars which are neatly dressed and have geometric relief patterns. In my opinion the most attractive artwork in the mosque is the roof panels and the prayer spot. Each dome is surrounded by four smaller domes and between them have attractive floral, leaf and other relief patterns. The large domes' roof panels are equally beautiful though same in all of them, comprising a three tiered multiple petalled lotus flower pattern surrounded by several layers of smooth steps which reduce in diameter as it nears the top.
  
Champaner historical vistas
Our next stop was the Jami Masjid, the finest monument in the Champaner ruins. Like the Saher Ki Masjid this also has two tall minars and seven Mehrabs. This is one of the few mosques I have seen which has a separate section for women. The sections are separated by a perforated screen, commonly known as Jali, the stone screen features some excellent stone tracery work one of the unique features in almost all major mosques and monuments in North India. The symmetry of the mesh/ tracery is marvellous and it is astonishing how these artisans could achieve such mastery over five centuries ago. The entrance arches, frescoes and windows feature excellent relief sculptures and are exquisite works of art and kudos to the ASI for maintaining the monuments so clean and neat. A notable feature of Jami Masjid is the excellent lintel designs all around the structure. At every level of lintels there are excellent floral, leaf and geometric patterns running through the perimeter of the monument. A large lake is also sited contiguous to the monument and perhaps served as the ablution pool. There are lot more monuments to see but since we didn't have much time we had to proceed ahead to Pavagadh fort, we stopped the exploration of Champaner at this point. I would definitely like to come back to this place and conduct a detailed study of the entire ruins but when I will be able to do it or will I be able to return at all is the million dollar question.
  
Jama Masjid - awe inspiringly planned architecture
As we exited from Jami Masjid and started riding Kishore realised that his bike's rear tyre was flat and wobbly. On closer examination we realised that it was a puncture, the first one on our tour so far. But we could find any nail on the tyre so we thought it must have been deflated by one of the hundreds of school kids who were hanging around our bikes. Thinking thus we inflated the tyre and decided to observe it for half an hour and then open the tyre. Meanwhile we had tea at a small village shop where we saw two very very old women wrinkled beyond age peeling vegetables. Though their hands were shivering, they eyes couldn't focus properly, they relentlessly worked, their sole meal of the day depended on their completing the task at hand. I felt pity on them, at an age when they would rather teach or supervise younger people, they have to struggle even for a meal. Another major task they had was to keep the numerous aggressively attacking monkeys at bay even as they worked with their frail and weak hands.
There was indeed a puncture and we went to the nearby roadside tube repair shop and opened up the tyre and tube. The puncture was due to a tiny metal shard embedded in the tube, I wonder how and it goes to say so much about the quality control in the tube manufacturing company. We fixed the puncture and soon were vrooming over the 5 km uphill track to the mid-point of Pavagadh hill fort. The road is smooth and views are scenic but we had to be extremely careful because of the maniac cab drivers who drove up and down the hill ferrying passengers. No rules, no indications or signals just hand on the steering and foot pressed on the gas pedal, accidents happen but who cares, it is afterall the passengers who suffer. We reached the top and were amazed at what we saw, the majestic Pavagadh fort towering over us in all glory, looking imposing in the bright afternoon.
  
Experiences in Champaner
The Pavagadh hill crowned by an ancient temple of Mahakali or Durga is a popular pilgrim centre. One can reach the top by walking along the steep and time-consuming 8 km footpath or a convenient 20-minute exhilirating and at times scary ropeway ride (Rs.70 per head return). Being starved of time and energy we opted for the latter and believe me enjoyed every moment of the rides. The rapid height gain provides an opportunity to visually savour the spectacular scenery of the Champaner valley, Pavagadh ravines and protected forests around the site. After getting off the ropeway we had to climb another 1,000 ft of steep rock cut steps to reach the zenith of the rocky mountain. Ashok said "I don't want to come, you guys go and enjoy yourselves." It was only two of us and we forged ahead and climbed to the temple. The temple per se is nothing great but the view of the surrounding countryside and hills is simply fantabulous, we noticed quaint villages, faraway lakes shimmering in the evening sunlight, ruins of Champaner appeared like colourful doll-houses. After soaking in the scenery we realised that our host would be waiting down and retraced our steps. Return journey was uneventful and we reached well within nightfall to Vadodara.
  
Pavagadh vistas - soul soothing and scenic
December 24, 2006, Vadodara-Ahmedabad
We are already 4-5 days behind schedule but it is ok we are seeing new places, meeting new people, experiencing and learning a lot from our travels. Our Christmas eve plan was to reach Ahmedabad only about 155 km from Vadodara. Hence we took it easy and started at about 11 am from Vadodara, Ashok led us out of the town and dropped us off at the highway to Ahmedabad. We rode across on the smooth double-lane road taking in the green well-cultivated countryside and reached the outskits of Ahmedabad at about 2.30 pm. One of the unique sights on this road is the abundance of camel carts, like in the southern states we use bullock carts, in Gujarat, Rajasthan and Madhya Pradesh people use camel carts. The ship of desert becomes a beast of burden doing everything from ploughing fields, hauling carts, giving rides to children etc
Our host Ms. Minal Doshi had given us clear instructions to reach her place in the city and we made a few enquiries and got on track. Mid-way at a village known as Sarkhej we met Hasmukh Patel a teacher who stopped his scooter and asked us where we wanted to go. When we showed him the address he said "Mere peeche ao, main pahunchaoonga". After about 15 minutes he stopped and pointed to a road and told us that Minal's place must be somewhere there. We thanked him and moved ahead and true enough our host's home was right there.
Minal Doshi an educationist and proponent of inclusive education, runs an education/ intervention centre to mainstream challented children under the age of five had known about our tour through our website and invited us to stay with her. "I have a dog and he goes wherever I go so if you don't have any issues about him you are welcome to come and stay with me," Minal had written to me. Her dog named Kaio ____ _____ (Brazillian name, I just can't pronounce) was initially hostile but soon got accustomed to our presence and became friendly. It is due to people like Minal that we have been able to travel, learn and interact with local people easily and of course experience the hospitality of the region. We lazed around the rest of the afternoon and worked on the internet at Minal's place during the evening and planned our next day's exploration of Ahmedabad.
December 25, 2006. Christmas in Ahmedabad
"Merry Christmas," said Minal as I woke up at 7.30 am. "Oooops it is already 25th and we are still in Gujarat," I thought. "Anyway we should see as much as possible during this once-in-a-lifetime tour," my mind consoled me. We set out into the city to explore and re-discover the numerous heritage monuments and landmarks. We rode through the chaotic city traffic and finally after about an hour reached the heart of the city where most of the monuments including, Siddi Saiyad Mosque, Old fort, Jami Masjid with shaking minarets, Huthisingh Jain temple etc are located. Between all these is sited the main market of the city.
Our first stop was at the Durga fort temple which we reached after travelling through a maze of traffic-choked streets. The fort is still in pretty good condition and largely occupied by a Durga temple and a mosque. The bastians and some rooms have been converted into housing quarters for the staff of ASI and police. Despite the state having made good progress in roads and government proclaiming prosperity, beggars abound, especially out of school children and old people on the streets. I wonder why the state government doesn't take care of its child citizens education and health. This would give these children on the streets a new lease of life. Several hoardings across the city claim "Vibrant Gujarat" I think it is only in roads and maintenance of historical monuments and definitely not in poverty eradication or giving good education to children of the poor or getting street children back into classrooms.
  
Sights of Ahmedabad - filth, squalor and neglect
The city's main market is right in front of the fort, it is colourful, noisy, crowded and filthy. Everything from clothes, plastics, toys, cosmetics, perfumes, food, metal ware etc were on sale. It was a cacophony of noises that we walked through barely able to make any conversation between us. Getting sick of the noise and filty we moved away and visited the Siddi Saiyad Mosque, famous for the exquisite tracery work in its windows. I had seen some fantastic pictures of the tracery or Jali work but the real window was far from impressive. In fact I felt that the Jali I had seen Champaner's Jami Masjid was as good or perhaps better. Apart from the tracery windows there is nothing much to see in this dirty ill-maintained monument. Ill-maintained perhaps because it is under the control of the religious body and not the ASI.
  
Ahmedabad's monuments
One funny feature we noticed in Maharashtra, Madhya Pradesh and Gujarat is that people give us directions conflictingly. "Go straight and turn right at the circle," says the main pointing to his left, this happened N number of times and we decided that in these states when someone says right, he means left and vice versa.
After a quick lunch break we moved to HuthiSingh Jain temple. I would say that this is the best monument I visited in the entire city of Ahmedabad. The sprawling teple has been maintained in a squeakingly clean condition. The temple has a fort like external wall of sub shrines which open out inside facing the circumambulatory path. Each of these subshrines have a beautifully built stone pyrimidical cupola and enshrines a marble image/ idol of one of the Jain thirthankaras or religious gurus. The entrance arch to the temple is itself a marvellous work of art in stone. A 50-ft tall Manasthamba in front of the temple entrance also has some excellent relief sculptures and appears imposing.
  
Ahmedabad's most artistic monument the Huthisingh Jain temple
As I steped inside the temple I was wonderstruck by the sheer intricacy, detail and proportion of so much artwork everywhere in the temple. The walls, pillars,frescoes, threshold, door posts and virtually every stone surface had beautiful sculptures. I think only the stones on the floor have been left uncarved. It was a fantastic eye-filling experience walking round the main shrine on the spacious open-to-sky circumambulatory path admiring the beautiful works of art on the walls and pillars of shrine. I wished I had come here first thing in the morning instead of wasting time in the noisy marketplace and the dirty mosque. This is one serene place where one could spend the entire day observing the sculptures and still not feel bored. Since there were not many visitors the temple exuded a quiet charm and it was wonderfully soothing.
The main temple, sited in an elevated space is supported by strikingly beautiful pillars and has lotus roof panels. Each sculpture, pattern and motif is so much life like and symmetrical. One thing I noticed is the similarity in the roof panels and windows between the mosques in Champaner and this Jain temple, now who copied from whom I don't know. But both the monuments are simply wonderful and I think it only by travelling one can learn about these wonders the man has created. I am thankful to god for having gifted this opportunity to travel and discover the wonders first hand.
We returned to Minal's place late in the evening and spoke to her about our experience in the city and about the mission of our tour. "You are talking about quality of education but do you know that there are millions of challenged kids who don't receive even the substandard education that is being provided in government schools," asked Minal, a former visiting scholar of Columbia University who has published a critique on the UN's Millennium Development Goals. "The MDGs don't include the education needs of physically and mentally challenged children. Neither does it say anything about early childhood intervention and care of special needs children," said Minal who has promoted an NGO which works with challenged children under the age of five to mainstream them. Success rate at her learning centre is very high. "I firmly believe that if inclusive education has to become a reality intervention should start immediately after a child is diagonised challenged. We do that and start working to make them independent learners and I am happy to say that over 80 percent of our children are attending mainstream schol and some have even passed class X," said Minal adding that currently 45 children in the age group of 0-7 yrs attend the centre's training programmes. Wonderful indeed I wish dedicated people like Minal were in larger in number in our country.
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